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Bee hotel guides: sizes, siting, species and care

Written by Clayton DawsonCabinetmaker and solitary-bee keeper, and the maker of the Wild Bee HotelLast reviewed 19 September 2026

Everything we have learned about getting a bee hotel occupied, written from what turns up in our own tunnels each season rather than copied from a catalogue: the widths bees need, where a hotel has to hang, when the different species fly, and how to tell a real build from a decorative one. If you are new to this, start with the four questions below — between them they answer most of what people write to us about.

Start here

Bee hotel basics in sixty seconds

Four things decide whether a bee hotel is used or ignored. Nothing else on this page matters much until these are right.

Tunnel widths, plural

A single drill size houses one species at best. A spread from roughly 2mm to 10mm suits masked bees, leafcutters and mason bees alike.

Sizes and depths

Untreated timber, thick enough

Paint and lacquer smell wrong to an inspecting female and seal moisture in. Thick untreated cedar buffers heat and lets the wood breathe.

Which timber lasts

Warm, still and dry

South to south-east facing, 1–1.5m up, fixed rigidly rather than swinging, with a roof that throws rain clear of the tunnel mouths.

Where to hang it

Left alone once occupied

Females memorise the exact spot. Moving it mid-season loses the nest, and bringing it indoors over winter wakes the brood too early.

Year-round care

Every guide, by subject

Choosing one

Start here if you are deciding what to buy. These pages cover what separates a hotel bees use from a decorative box, how the different names on the label relate to each other, and what a fair price looks like.

Bee hotels vs bug and insect hotels

The same product is sold under three or four different names, and they are not interchangeable. These pages explain what each one actually houses so you buy the right thing for what you want to attract.

Which bees use it

Around nine in ten British bee species are solitary, with no hive, no queen and no honey. These pages introduce the species that nest in tunnels, when each one flies, and what the tunnels need to suit them.

Setting it up and looking after it

Once you have one, siting decides almost everything. These pages cover height, direction, timing and the small amount of care a well-built hotel needs across the year.

What is happening right now

A bee hotel has a rhythm. Knowing which part of it you are in tells you whether to be watching, waiting or leaving it entirely alone.

  1. March to June

    Red mason bees fly. Males appear first and patrol the front; females follow and start sealing tunnels with mud.

    Spring timing
  2. June to August

    Leafcutter bees take over, capping tunnels with neat discs of leaf cut from roses and shrubs.

    Leafcutter bees
  3. September to November

    Activity stops. Sealed tunnels hold developing larvae, so nothing should be opened, moved or cleaned.

    Cleaning, properly
  4. December to February

    The hotel stays outside. The natural cold is what keeps next spring's emergence on schedule.

    Winter problems

About Clayton Dawson

Cabinetmaker and solitary-bee keeper, and the maker of the Wild Bee Hotel. Every guide here is written and reviewed against what Clayton sees in his own tunnels each season, and checked against published guidance from the Bumblebee Conservation Trust, Buglife and the RHS. Read the full story.

Ready for a hotel bees will actually use?

Untreated Western red cedar with 19mm walls, a hand-formed copper roof, hand-sanded tunnels from 2mm to 10mm and a solid rear panel — built to every point on this page. From £39.99, with packs of two, three and four bringing the price per hotel down.

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Wild Bee Hotel with its copper roof beside purple geraniums