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Bee hotel setup guide

Written by Clayton DawsonCabinetmaker and solitary-bee keeper, and the maker of the Wild Bee HotelUpdated 20 September 2026

Everything to do between the parcel arriving and the first bee arriving: where to fix it, how to fix it so it cannot move, what to plant nearby, and what a normal first season looks like.

Wild Bee Hotel fixed to a house wall above a garden table

Step 1: unpack and check

Take the hotel out of its carton and look down a few tunnels. They should be clean, dry and smooth, with no loose dust or splinters at the rims. The copper roof is hand-formed, so small variations in the hammered surface are normal and it will darken over time. If anything has arrived damaged in transit, photograph it and email us before fixing it up — replacements are straightforward within the 30-day window.

Step 2: choose the spot before you pick up a drill

Walk the garden in the morning rather than the afternoon and find a surface that is in sun by about nine o'clock, sheltered from driving rain and the prevailing wind, solid enough not to flex, and roughly chest height. A house or shed wall under an eave, or a firm fence post, are the usual winners. Full shade and anything that swings are the two choices that most reliably end in an empty hotel. The full decision is set out in where to put a bee hotel, with the compass detail in which direction it should face.

Step 3: fix it so it cannot move

Fix through into masonry with a plug and screw, or into a post or timber rail with two screws so it cannot rotate. Aim for the tunnel faces to sit vertical or tipped very slightly downwards at the front, which helps any wind-driven water run out rather than in. Do not hang it on a single nail, a cord or a hook. Do not screw through the roof. Keep the space in front clear so a bee can hover and reverse into a tunnel without brushing foliage. Practical fixing options, including no-drill approaches, are in where to hang a bee hotel.

Step 4: set up the garden around it

What to provideWhy it matters
Open, single-flowered plants from March to SeptemberPollen is the food store for every cell; doubles are often useless
A patch of bare, damp soilMason bees build cell walls from wet mud and cannot nest without it
Early spring flowers close byMason bees fly before most gardens have much in bloom
No insecticide use on flowering plantsSprays reach the pollen the larvae eat

Fruit blossom, pulmonaria, aubretia, geraniums, borage, lavender, scabious and single dahlias cover the season well, and the attracting guide goes further.

Step 5: what a normal first season looks like

  • Weeks 1–3: nothing. Females are searching a landscape they already know.
  • First warm spell: bees hovering at the face, backing in and out. That is inspection, not nesting.
  • Spring: the first mud caps appear. Each one is a completed nest of several cells.
  • Summer: neat leaf discs at tunnel mouths as leafcutters take over vacated tunnels.
  • Autumn and winter: complete stillness. The brood is dormant inside; leave it outdoors.

If the first spring passes with nothing at all, that is still within normal. Give it a second season before changing anything, then work through the troubleshooting list.

Step 6: the things not to do

Do not paint, varnish, oil or preserve it — solvent smells deter females and coatings close the tunnel walls. Do not bring it indoors for winter, because household warmth triggers emergence months before there are flowers. Do not open sealed tunnels to look inside. Do not add sugar water, which attracts ants and wasps and feeds nothing that nests. Do not move it mid-season once tunnels are being provisioned.

After season one

From the second year the job is simply keeping it dry, still and unobstructed, with a light clean only once tunnels have been used and emptied. Those routines are in the care guide and how to clean a bee hotel. If you do not own a hotel yet, the Wild Bee Hotel is 19mm untreated Western red cedar with a hand-formed copper roof, hand-sanded tunnels from 2mm to 10mm and a solid rear panel, from £39.99 with free worldwide shipping.

Questions people ask next

Does a bee hotel need assembling?
The Wild Bee Hotel arrives complete — there is nothing to build, glue or drill into the box itself. Setup is choosing the position and fixing it to a wall, post or shed so it cannot move, which takes a few minutes with a drill or a sturdy bracket.
What is the best month to put it up?
Late winter to very early spring, so it is in place and weathered before the first warm days bring mason bees out. Any time of year is acceptable, but a hotel installed in autumn is ready and looks established when the spring search for nest sites begins.
Do I need to add anything inside the tunnels?
No. Do not add straw, cotton wool, sugar water, oil, paint or attractants. Females bring their own materials and provision their own cells. Anything added to a tunnel reduces its usable depth or makes it damp, and treatments can deter bees outright.
How soon will bees use it?
Sometimes within weeks if solitary bees are already nesting nearby, often not until the second spring. First-season emptiness is normal and not a fault. The reliable signs of use are sealed tunnel mouths of mud in spring and cut leaf discs in summer.
What maintenance does it need in year one?
Almost none. Keep foliage off the face, check the fixing before winter storms, and leave every sealed tunnel alone. Cleaning becomes relevant only after tunnels have been used and emptied, which the care and cleaning guides cover.
Wild Bee Hotel photographed on a plain white background

Start the first season right

A well-built box, fixed firmly in morning sun before the first warm spell, is most of the job done.

See the Wild Bee Hotel4.8/5 · 7,763 reviews

About Clayton Dawson

Cabinetmaker and solitary-bee keeper, and the maker of the Wild Bee Hotel. Clayton has kept red mason and leafcutter bees in his own garden for years, and every guide on this site is written and checked against what he sees in the tunnels each season rather than copied from a catalogue. Read the full story.

First published 3 September 2025 · last reviewed 20 September 2026.

What we based this on: Buglife, RHS, Wildlife Trusts.

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